Inchigeelagh down through the ages:
Is féidir níos mó eólas a fáil amach ó Cumann Stáire Beal Átha'n Ghaorthaidh agus Ínse Geimhleach. Goidtar an laethanch aníos ós na sáreolaí sin !
Inchigeelagh 1900
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Prehistoric Times
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Pre-Historic
The Archealogists tell us that Donemark 18 miles west of Inchigeelagh, near
Bantry is the oldest known habitation in Ireland. It is safe to assume from the
the many archeological sites that
those earliest settlers quickly make there way along the Lee Valley.
These include Standing Stones, Burial Mounts,Dolmens, Forts , Crannóg, Holy Wells, Mountain Top Megalithitic Graves.
The most unique feature from this time is the Crannóg in Loch Allua
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CRANNÓG
A description of Oilean Ui Mhaothagain (Mehigan's Island), a crannog in Lough Allua between Ballingeary and Inchigeela, Co. Cork
This study of the 'Crannog' was done by Máire Uí Léime as part of a U.C.C. course. This Crannog is the only one of it's kind in Co. Cork.
The crannog is in the townland of Tir-na-Spideoige, half way between Beal-athan-Ghaorthaidh and Inchigeela. You take the Beal-athan-Ghaorthaidh road from Inchigeela, and when you have travelled 3. miles, turn right at the bridge park your car, come back to the main road and follow the river until it reaches the lakeside. That clump of trees in the lake in the distance is the Crannog.
The land here is 200 feet above sea level, it slopes gently to the lakeshore. Cattle and sheep are grazed on the land, silage is cut 2/3 times a year. The ground is boggy and marshy in places and liable to flooding during the wet weather. Again we see ash, holly, black/whitethorn and sally bushes growing in the hedgerow. Rushes and reeds cover large amounts of this ground, swans are known to return here year after year to nest.
The Crannog is a typical lake dwelling settlement. (Michael J. O'Kelly 1989). This Crannog is home to 10/12 sally trees, some rushes and reeds, a few blades of grass and a lot of moss. During the wet weather the Crannog with the exception of the trees is covered with water. The trees are 6/7m high and hang out over the crannog and it is difficult to get on to it but it is well worth the effort. You are surrounded by water, green fields sloping to the lakeshore, the Shehy Mountains to the South, The Derrynasagart Mountains to the North and West, hills and rich green fields Directly to the North and the water to the East.
Since this is the first real live Crannog that I have visited, it is in pretty good nick. When you think of the water around it, the trees growing in it, it has passed the test of time.
The Crannog is in a little cove on the Northern shore of the lake. It is roughly circular in shape, it is very uneven under foot. The trees have twisted downwards and re-rooted in the ground and a lot of the roots can be seen twisting around the stones. Some clay, tree roots and stones litter the ground underfoot. From North to South the Crannog measures 9.47m and from East to West it measures 13m. It is roughly 0.82m above the water level.
The stones are of similar size, they are about 40cm diameter. The stones slope gently away from the edge of the Crannog, they can see them for 1m under the water from the Crannog. Using an oar while on the boat the stones extend 2m beyond the edge of the Crannog, it became very muddy the further away from the edge of the Crannog the boat went. On the South West and Western side of the Crannog the soil is being washed away, and nothing is growing here. The stones can be easily seen here they extend 2m beyond the surface of the Crannog and slope gently away from the sides of the Crannog. Beyond these stones it gets 1.5m deep and it is very muddy and the oars begin to stick in the mud, the day was windy and the boat drifted a lot so we had to head for shore.
A local farmer told me that some timbers can be seen around the Crannog during very dry summers, it failed us locate any timbers with the oars. A stone causeway leading from the Crannog to the shore on the North is also visible during dry summers. We crossed this area several times and failed to hit anything.
In Irish the Crannog is called Oilean Ui Mhaothagain (Mehigan's Island). Some say that Maothagain was an O'Leary chieftian others say that the word should be Meathain which is the Irish for twigs and sapplings. This word Meathain appears in the name Doire an Mheathain (Derryvane) which is a townland close to Tir- na-Spideioge. I prefer the name Maothagain, whether there was an O'Leary named Maothagain or not I have to find out.
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The Arrival of the O'Learys
As the name of the parish - Iveleary - suggests, the O'Leary (O'Laoire nó O'Laoghaire as Gaelige)
family are the dominant clan in the area. They have played a long and honourable part in the
history of Ireland. The rugged terrain of the countryside and small number of river crossings
never allowed the forces of authority to really bring the parish under control.
In this they have been helped by scions of the O'Donovan and Cotter families, while
often under the patronage of the mighty McCarthy clan which dominated Muskerry.
The O’Leary’s One Thousand years Ago –
and the origins of the Parish Of Uibh Laoghaire
by Peter O'Leary
Rosscarbery is a pretty little town, nay a City, in West Cork, on the coast and lying between Clonakilty and Ballydehob. It’s population is less than 1000 and there is little by way of Industry or Tourism attractions. It is a City because the See of Ross Diocese has always been there, and consequently it has a Cathedral. The Church of Ireland retains the Cathedral, but has long since joined the Diocese with Cork and Cloyne. The Catholic Church abandoned Rosscarbery as the seat of it’s Bishop which was moved to Skibbereen, and it likewise joined the Diocese of Ross with Cork.
The interest to our Parish of Uibh Laoghaire in this lovely City of Rosscarbery is that it was the place which 1000 years ago, most of our local families came from. Their dramatic move to Uibh Laoghaire will be described later, but first let us consider life for the O’Learys and their associated families as it was during the First Millenium. AD.
The Tribe who occupied most of Carbery from Kinsale to Bantry, were Erainn people called the Corcu Loigde (see article about The Old Tribes of Munster). Towards the end of the 2nd century AD this Tribe produced a king called Luy Maccon who became High King of Ireland for a period of 30 years ended in 212 AD. His eldest son continued to rule over the Corcu Loigde and his descendants were the O’Driscolls. Luy’s 5th. son, Fothac Canaan, founded a family which became one of the sub-kings under the O’Driscolls, and eventually took the surname of O’Leary. As a Tribe they were known as the Ui Laoghaire long before the introduction of surnames. These Ui Laoghaire were chieftains of the Tuath Ruis or Tuath in Dolaich, which covered an area of about 40 sq. miles around the City of Rosscarbery. Their main Residence was the ringfort of Burgatia, and nearby they founded a Monastery which later became a well known seat of Learning, a University, and a Bishopric. The Diocese of Ross was upheld at the Synods of the 12th.c. and the O’Learys became the Hereditary Wardens of the Monastery and University.
All this comfortable lifestyle was shattered in the 12th century due to the upheavals caused by the arrival of the Anglo-Norman invasion. The powerful Norman Lords swept across the country seeking the best land and seizing it. These included the Desmond FitzGeralds and their supporters who targeted the lands of Limerick County. This caused the families of Collins and O’Donovan to forsake their ancient territories in Limerick and seek their fortunes further South in Carbery, invited there by the O’Mahoneys who at that time were at war with their distant cousins the O’Donoghues.
The final outcome of all these upheavals was that the Collins and O’Donovans moved down to Carbery, the O’Donoghues moved up to Glen Fesk and Killarney, and the O’Learys moved up to Uibh Laoghaire where they have remained ever since. With them came many of their followers including the Twomeys, Cronins and Lynches who had all been natives of South Carbery.
These events, according to John O’Donovan in his History of the O’Donovan Clan, took place in 1196. It certainly must have been about this date and after the Invasion by the Anglo-Normans which started in 1169. It is probably reasonable to accept the 1196 date since we have no other evidence for or against.
The groundwork for this move took place several years earlier. The O’Mahoneys and the O’Donoghues were descended from the same tribe, the Ui Eachach, a branch of the Eoganachta of Cashel. They had come down from Cashel in the 6th century and had divided the territory of North Carbery between them, the Cineal Aodh (O’Mahoneys) taking the Eastern portion around modern Kinelmeaky and Kinelea, with the Cineal Laoghaire (O’Donoghue) holding the Western portion from about Coppeen to Drimoleague.
The territory of the Cineal Laoghaire was known as Uibh Laoghaire. This name was given to the whole of the North West part of Carbery and it included of course our Parish which was later to be known by the same name.
Sometime in the 10th century a sub-king of the Cineal Laoghaire called Srufan gave three Tuatha to his kinsmen in the West when he retired from the World into a Monastery. These three Tuatha were our own Parish which has ever since been internally divided into three parts, ie. the Inchigeelagh area, the Ballingeary area, and the area South of the Mountains, or Coolmountain in Carbery.
The two Clans lived in peace for about 500 years but came to blows after the battle of Clontarf in 1014. They fought a battle at Maghcliath which was won by the O’Mahoneys. The O’Donoghues fought on for many years, but eventually decided to move, gave up their territory of Uibh Laoghaire and moved to Glen Fesk. The O’Mahoneys took over the main part of Uibh Laoghaire, and the Western portion eventually became O’Mahoney an Oir (Western).
The O’Learys from Carbery had meanwhile started to occupy the lands along the River Lee which had been given to them by Srufan. By 1196 the O’Learys had completed their move to the new and much smaller Uibh Laoghaire by the River Lee.
In the 12th. and 13th.c,. the position changed again when the great McCarthy families took over Carbery (McCarthy Reagh) and Muskerry (McCarthy Muskerry). These moves made huge inroads into the O’Mahoney and other territories, but left the O’Learys more or less unscathed in their mountain retreat now called Uibh Laoghaire.
The first Millenium of the Christian era was spent by the our ancestors in Rosscarbery. The second Millenium was spent in Uibh Laoghaire. Our Millenium Celebrations span two Millenia unlike many who are not so fortunate as to know their past History in such detail.
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O'Sullivan march stopping in area
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Normans to the Penal Days
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The Life and Times of Art O Laoghaire.
By Peter O'Leary
1. The events of May 4th.1773.
Art O Laoire was 26, a Captain in the Hungarian Hussars, a Regiment of Empress Marie Therese's Army of Austro-Hungary. On that day in May he was seen in Carriganimma, crossing the footbridge over the River Foherish, and proceeding on horseback along the ridge on the West Bank. He was riding over a small green inch in the townland of Carrigonirtane when a single shot rang out, killing Art instantly. He was thrown to the ground and his horse ran off, returning eventually to Art's house in Rathleigh near Macroom.
Shortly before this, a contingent of soldiers, led by a local Magistrate, Abraham Morris from Hanover Hall, also near Macroom, had lined up along a ditch bordering the pound on the East side of the River. Morris gave the order to fire, and the first shot, which killed Art, came from the musket of a soldier called Green.
That the killing was Official Execution, or maybe Legalised Murder, is supported by three facts.
a. Art had previously been declared an Outlaw under the provisions of the Penal Laws.
b. The soldier Green was decorated for his "Gallantry".
c. Morris himself elected to stand trial by his peers, the local Magistracy, and was found innocent of any crime by those Gentlemen.
In more recent years a small monument has been erected on the spot, which reads
"ar an lathair seo a maraiodh Art O Laoghaire ar an 4u Bealtaine 1773 ar dheis De go raibh se"
(On this spot, Art O Laoire was killed, 4th.May 1773. RIP)
2. The facts leading up to this incident.
Art was the son of Cornelius O Laoire, and grandson of Keadagh O Laoire who leased the Townland of Teergay in Uibh Laoghaire. These lands had been held for many generations by this branch of the O Laoire family. After Keadaghs death, in 1723, Teergay was sold to Dr.Edward Barry. Cornelius at some time prior to 1769 had taken the lease of Rathleigh House, a fine Georgian Farm House, where he lived with his family, including his son Art.
Art was born in 1746. We know nothing about his early life, but he was presumably well educated, and the family lived a comfortable life of Gentleman Farmers, despite the difficulties of doing so, since they were Catholics living during the Penal Times.His father must have been reasonably well off, since he would have had to purchase the commission in the Army for Art, as well as the cost of the journey to Austria. Cornelius acted as Land Agent for the Minhear family of Carrigaphooka, and the lease of Rathleigh House probably formed part of his deal with these Landlords.
These circumstances were uncommon, but not totally unknown. Many such households are described in Daniel Corkerys "Hidden Ireland". One other was that of the O'Connells of Derrynane in the depths of Co.Kerry. It was one of those O'Connells, Eibhlin Dubh, who Art married. They had a romantic meeting in Macroom Town Square, fell in love, and eloped because of the hostility of the O'Connells, but were eventually married.
Colonel Daniel O'Connell writing to his brother, Maurice "Hunting Cap" O'Connell from France in 1773 says " I still foresaw that his violence and ungovernable temper would infallibly lead him into misfortune."
The O'Connells had made a virtue, and a good living, out of the smuggling trade. They did not want any official light cast on their activities, and to them, Art spelled
Trouble. He was apparently a brash young man, proud of his lineage, and his status as on Officer. He certainly considered himself a Gentleman, and had doubts about the similar credentials of those who persecuted him.
When Art met Eibhlin in 1767 she was aged 23 and had been a widow since she was 15. She had been previously married to "old O'Connor of Firies", but he had died after six months of marriage. Eibhlin was the 5th of the 8 daughters of Daniel Mor O'Connell, who also had 5 sons and another 9 children who died young. She was thus an Aunt of Daniel O'Connell the Liberator, who was born in 1775.
Art and Eibhlin were married 19th.December 1767 and continued to live with his Father at Rathleigh House. It would seem that Art returned to Austria for further periods of service between 1767 and his death in 1773. Although we do not know his precise movements, he was home to conceive a second son Fiach in about 1700, and apparently Eibhlin was again pregnant at the time of his death.
There was a history of bad blood between Art and Morris, who was High Sheriff of County Cork in 1771. In that year we have a dramatic account of an encounter between the two men which took place at Hanover Hall on 13th.July. This first notice was placed in the Cork Evening Post on 19th.August by Art stating that he had been charged with different crimes, and was prepared to stand trial at the next Assizes in Cork. This was followed on 7th.October by a claim against Art by Morris, outlining his charges against Art for the incident of the 13th.July. Morris's fellow Magistrates in the Muskerry Constitutional Society in an advertisement 3 days later appear to have agreed with their colleague and judged Art in his absence. He was Outlawed, and a price of 20 guineas put on his head. On 19th.October Art replied through the same Newspaper and defended himself vigorously from the charge, and suggests that judgement should be suspended until he has had a fair trial.
The later event which we have no written evidence for, was a claim against Art under the Penal Laws, which took place in 1773. The circumstances revolve around the fact that Art brought back with him from Austria, his fine brown steed, on which he rode around in full view of the general public. Morris demanded that Art sell him the horse for £5. The Penal Laws, amongst many other humiliating clauses aimed at Catholics, stated that a Catholic may not own a horse of value more than £5, and any Protestant could demand its sale at this price. Art refused the sale, and struck Morris with his horse whip. He also challenged Morris to a duel, which was declined.
Morris clearly was using his position as Magistrate, and at one point High Sheriff, to further his act of revenge against his enemy. He had no difficulty in persuading his fellow Magistrates to support him in his vendetta, and once proclaimed as an outlaw, Art could then be shot at sight quite legally.
It is believed that on that May day in 1773 , Art knew that Morris was on business in Millstreet, set off himself to intercept his enemy on his return, and may well have decided to kill Morris. It is also said that Art refreshed himself in the Inn in Carrignanimma, bought drinks freely, and regaled his audience with tales of what he was going to do to Morris. Also that one of this audience slipped quietly away, rode towards Millstreet to warn Morris. Morris returned to Millstreet and collected the posse of soldiers who went with him to Carriganimma and set up the ambush. These are not proven facts but fit in well with what actually happened that day.
It is said that Art, a professional soldier, judged that he was out of range of the firing squad, and was in fact tormenting them. If that is so, he was sadly wrong. Measurement on the ground shows that he was killed by a musket shot at about 240 yards, so his judgement should have been correct. Perhaps the one shot was a rather unlucky fluke.
There is an interesting theory which throws some light on this unlucky fluke. According to Joe O'Leary of Carriganimma it is widely believed in that area that the first shot which hit Art in the neck, was in fact fired at much closer range, when he and his horse appeared in the view of the soldiers immediately opposite them on the other side of the river, and close to the footbridge. This would be as he came around Joe's farm. The theory is that Art was mortally wounded but stayed in the saddle for another hundred yards, then fell from the horse at the point where the monument is now. He was then left by the soldiers to bleed to death at this spot. This is much more convincing, and means that the fatal musket shot was fired at a range of more like 100 yards. Still a difficult shot, but more possible.
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Kinsale 1601
The men of Uibh Laoghaire at the Battle of Kinsale.
Like many clans in Munster there were men of Uibh Laoghaire fighting on both sides. There is not much doubt that the sympathy of most of them was for O’Neill, and many individuals joined his Army when it came down South.
But the official position of the clan was totally different. The O’Learys were freeholders but subject to the chief clan in Muskerry, the McCarthys of Blarney and Macroom. The head of this family at the time was Sir Cormac mac Dermod McCarthy, Lord Muskerry (1552-1616) who had become chieftain in 1583. The O’Learys not only had to pay him dues, but also had to provide a military force in times of war.
Lord Muskerry was probably the chieftain with the most to lose in terms of land and wealth. He had therefore declared for the Queen although this was against the wishes of most of his clansmen, and indeed most of his immediate family. Carew, the President of Munster, had no confidence in the loyalty of Lord Muskerry or indeed of any of the chieftains who were obviously merely protecting their own interests by pretending to be loyalists. So Lord Muskerry, and his wife and son, were under some form of house arrest in Shandon Castle in Cork for most of this period.
There was therefore a contingent of troops provided by Lord Muskerry, and commanded by him, which served at the Siege and the Battle. To test this force, Carew made Lord Muskerry lead them out below the walls where the Spanish were ensconced, and there then ensued much rattling of sabers and exchange of shouts but not much else. Lord Muskerry’s force did take part in a more serious fight a few days later when they repelled a party of Spaniards who had sallied forth from behind the walls, and were spiking the guns of one of the batteries.
The Uibh Laoghaire contingent in this force was led by Donogh the recently elected O’Leary chieftain, and included Lisagh who was his half-brother and only about 15 at the time. Oddly enough Carew took a liking to Lisagh and they became firm friends. When Lisagh eventually married, he named his firstborn son George after his patron, a name which was previously unheard of in the family.
Meanwhile we have no details of the warlike happenings of the other members of the clan who were serving O’Neill. After the battle was over they would have quietly marched home to Inchigeelagh whilst their Northern comrades fled back to Ulster.
A third body of soldiers included Mahon MacDonagh O’Leary who was attached to the company of Barry Óg of Rincurran. He became a prisoner of the English after Rincurran fell, and was included in the Spanish force, which sailed from Kinsale after the surrender.
Thus there were representatives from Uibh Laoghaire in all three of the Armies at the Battle of Kinsale. Most clans found themselves represented in at least two of the Armies.
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Plantation - Masters London Sword Company
Mass Rock
Hedge School
Stagecoach
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The Famine
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Famine in Iveleary
by Dave Walden
In the decade which included the worst years of the Famine the population of the parish of Iveleary dropped by more than a quarter. The population of the entire parish in 1841 was 6,357 in 1,032 houses. By 1851 231 cabins had been vacated and the remaining population numbered 4,584.
When the Famine struck the parish it struck hard, and distress and hardship reached 'a most alarming pitch', reported the principal members of the Relief Committee, Fr. Holland P.P. and Rev. Sadleir in March 1847. They went on to add that 'famine and disease [was] making fearful havoc among our poor'. These two men, as representatives of the Relief Committee, were in regular communication with the Relief Commission and with newspapers, relating conditions in Iveleary and local efforts to provide food and work for the starving people. As early as October 1846, as the entire stock of potatoes belonging to the labouring class had already been consumed, they explained in detail the difficulties a labourer would have to earn sufficient to purchase Indian meal: 'A labourer at 8d per day and constant work could earn only sufficient to purchase two stone in the week which would be little more than adequate for the support of three adults, but at this season of the year, the labourer can scarcely reckon on more than four days employment'. This situation would only get worse with winter around the corner.
A regular stream of letters from the Committee to the Relief Commission graphically described the worsening conditions. They sought, begged is probably a better word, additional funding from the British Relief Committee. Included in their requests were detailed lists of moneys collected locally, a grant being dependent on sums raised locally, and it appears that they were able fund-raisers. A list of donations survives, the second collection started October 1846, and over 200 farmers are named.
By February 1847 the Relief Committee wanted to establish in the district two, or more, soup kitchens, 'to supply soup for the entire of their poor. There are a large number of persons, widows and others, who have no persons in their families able to labour on the public works and who, in consequence, are in need of gratuitous relief.' They add 'numbers must perish if relief be not afforded'.
It is not clear if the soup kitchen established at Coolmountain House was a direct result of the efforts of the Relief Committee. It is generally considered that Dennis O'Leary, a land agent and occupier of Coolmountain House and farm, ordered and imported a boiler and established a soup kitchen himself. This is not so unlikely as there was a small boiler in operation in the village of Inchigelagh in 'private hands', wholly independent of the Relief Committee and which the Committee were 'happy to bear testimony to the excellent manner in which it was conducted'.
Dennis O'Leary was in the employ of Lord Riversdale, an absentee landlord. Townlands that were known to be part of his duties were as far apart as Graigue and Coolmountain, and probably much of the territory in between. He was an Irish speaking Catholic, and came of the O'Leary Breac branch of the O'Leary clan. Coolmountain House was a safe house, and harboured many men on the run for insurrection and rebellion. Amongst these lodgers were leaders of rebellion such as Mitchell, Stephens and Doheney. Apparently Dennis O'Leary was carrying on where his father before him left off. It is fair to assume that Dennis O'Leary was a patriot and had a concern for the welfare of the people and his country.
The boiler that has been placed beside the bridge in Ballingeary is the Famine pot from Coolmountain House.
There were many individuals and organisations that attempted to relieve suffering in Ireland during the Famine years. Notably the Quakers who raised very large sums of money for famine relief in Britain and America and imported nearly 600 boilers from foundries in northern England to establish soup kitchens. These charitable, practical and non-sectarian people asked for nothing in return which compares very favorably with the miserable and outrageous attempts to proselytise by certain Protestant groups. There were many instances of aid being provided on condition that the recipient renounce their Catholicism. This led to the phrase 'taking the soup' and the word Souperism, which to this day is very emotive. It was a bitter issue at the time, the more so because it helped fuel the antagonism between Catholic and Protestant, at a period when laws against Catholics were being relaxed in Europe as well as in Ireland.
For those that need to be reassured, the Famine pot from Coolmountain House has no taint of Souperism, nor any other unwanted association with fraud or abuse of charity funds.
There are many recipes for soup but most kitchens had to rely on what was available. A Monsieur Alexis Soyer devised two economical recipes which he claimed were good and nourishing. His basic recipe was to two gallons of water add two ounces of dripping, two onions and other vegetables, half a pound of (second quality) flour, half a pound of pearl barley, three ounces of salt and half an ounce of brown sugar. His 'luxury' soup included a quarter pound of beef to the above. Maize was used to thicken. As a member of the Irish Confederation said, 'I wish the man who proposed this greasy water, denominated soup, were obliged to live on a bowl of it per day for three months and be obliged, during that time, to walk from six to eight miles per day after working twelve hours.'
This article relies heavily on the book by Márie Mac Suibhne, Famine In Muskerry, available in bookshops locally and well worth reading. I thank her for permission to use her words so freely. I would also like to thank Donal O'Mahoney for information on famine pots.
The Famine pot possibly came from the Coalbrookdale Foundry in Shropshire. It has a diameter over 4ft and a depth of 2ft 6ins. This gives a capacity of over 350litres. It is cast iron with an estimated weight of about 350kg. There are four stubs on the outside near the rim which were probably to take chains to hold it over a fire. Originally it may have had a lid.
Most of the stones used in the construction of the base of the structure in the village came from an old building in an area north of Ballingeary known as Cups (or Copse). There is a story that Donncha O Cuill, of this area, carried the corpse of his sixteen-year-old daughter in a cisean, a deep basket with shoulder straps, the seven miles to the family burial plot at Inchigelagh graveyard after she had died from hunger.
The bent oak beams of the structure housing the pot symbolize the poorest of housing at the time of the famine, where people with nothing built shelters from branches and thatched them with reeds or straw. Thatching the structure in the village was an option, but it was decided that thatch could be damaged too easily. Old slate was the alternative. The structure was built over an extended period, creating endless speculation as to what it would finally look like; or indeed if it would ever be finished.
The Cumann Staire would like to thank the following for their assistance and support in this project:
Dairygold Coop Ltd. for giving permission to use the green outside the creamery.
Firebird Ltd, Ballymakeera, for the frame that supports the pot. The design and construction of this excellent frame was carried out by Brendan Twomey.
Les Carter for relinquishing possession of the pot in favour of the Cumann Staire, and without whose benevolence the project could never have happened.
Luc Racine for the design of the structure, selection of timber and workshop facilities for some awkward cutting of the main beams.
Udaras na Gealteachta for financial assistance in the form of a grant that paid for a significant proportion of the materials.
The CE scheme workers involved in the construction of the site.
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INCHIGEELA CHURCH
Inchigeela Church was built in 1842 by Rev. Jeremiah Holland, parish priest at the time and it was a building that was admired by everybody for it's beautiful cut stone and arches. At the consecration the Church was described as a perfect gem of architectural beauty which never fails to attract the admiring gaze of the passing tourist, adding as it does a most enchanting effect to the charms of the scenery.
Rev. Jeremiah Holland was a native of Barley Field, Kilbrittain, where he was born in 1787. He was ordained in Maynooth in 1813 and served a curacy of 3 years in St.Finbarr's before his appointment as parish priest of Uibh Laoire in 1816 on the transfer of Fr.Tom Lane that year to Ballincollig. Uibh Laoire at the time of Fr. Holland's appointment was said to have required for its pastor a man of the most indomitable energy and the most ardent zeal religion.
Rev. Jeremiah Holland's assignment to Uibh Laoire was to have been a short duration on the promise of Bishop Murphy "not to leave him long in purgatory". He was destined to spend the remainder of his life there and to tackle parish problems single handed until 1857 when Rev. Jeremiah Carey became his curate . Fortunately for himself Rev. Jeremiah Holland cared not for faction or feud nor for Whiteboys or Tories who were numerous in the area. His courage was known to have been equal to all contingencies as he rode on horseback by torch light over the mountains to attend sick calls, led funerals over the high rough terrain and to bring the blessing of Mass and the Sacraments to his people in these distant outposts. Until he began his own Church building programme in earnest.
Fr. Holland is believed to have said Sunday Mass in what was known as "Inchigeela Cottage", a cottage in the village owned at the time by a tailor named Barry. Several contradictory accounts of this cottage prevail, but of the Churches accredited to Fr. Holland himself there can be no confusion. His Church of 1822 was built at the south of the village of Inchigeela. It was a small building to which an extension of about 12 feet was later made, giving it an area of 52'~27'. This lasted as a place of worship until 1842 . From that date until 1905 it was used as a schoolroom and after that as the parochial hall.
The second Church, that of St. Finbarr and the Holy Angels in the townland of Carrigleigh was erected in 1842 at Fr. Holland's own expense, a sum that ranges from £450 to £1,200 according to tradition.
In educational terms Rev. Jeremiah Holland was not slout to avail of the advantages of the National School system from which he secured several well furnished schools which were an improvement on the five already existing schools. The many fine schools and Churches erected by him and other good works will be a lasting monument to his memory. He died on 17th of January 1864 and was succeeded by his nephew and namesake whose pastorate in Uibh Laoire lasted until1888.
From a newspaper report of the time
"On the morning of Wednesday the 20th of January, (1884) the remains of Rev. Jeremiah Holland, whose death was announced a few days ago, were deposited in the grounds attached to the parish Church of Inchigeela. Previous to the internment, the Solemn Office and High Mass were celebrated in the Church which was filled to excess by the parishioners, amongst whom not a dry eye could be discovered. Not withstanding the inclemency of the weather, an immense assemblage of clergymen presented themselves to pay the last tribute of respect to the venerable departed in whom they recognized during life all the qualities that adorn the minister of God and exalt the character of man.
After the High Mass, a procession of the clergy chanting the funeral service proceeded from the Church, the coffin being born in the rear by four stalwart men, and then began a scene to which, for its touching effect upon our feelings, we have never witnessed a parallel. The immense concourse of people rushed around the coffin and vented their feelings in one loud prolonged wail, in which the solemn strains of the Benedictas were completely lost. Old men wept like children, while women and even some young girls and boys sobbed aloud as for the loss of a dearest friend, and well indeed might they weep for it is notorious that the good priest often saved many amongst the woes of enjectments and the paupers grave, by the ready offer of his purse on the gale day, when they should otherwise have appeared penniless before the ruthless landlord or the unrelenting agent.
Oh happy must be the soul of that priest whose remains after a long life go down into the grave as those of Fr. Holland did amongst the tears of his sorrowing parishioners and the earnest prayers of those to whose best interests he devoted all the energies of his manhood and all the solicitude of his declining years. Where but in Inchigeela could such a spectacle be witnessed.
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Major Michael O'Leary VC.
Michael O'Leary was a very brave young soldier, serving in the British Army during World War 1, who was awarded the Victoria Cross (VC) for conspicuous bravery in the field of battle.
The VC is probably the most prestigious and coveted award for bravery in the World. Awarded for outstanding deeds, it ranks before all other honours in Britain. Very few are awarded, and these are all heroic and magnificent acts of valour.
The medal was instituted in 1857 and is normally only awarded during times of War. It is a simple bronze cross, with a deep crimson ribbon which the proud recipients wear before all other medals or honours.
No one can wear a VC because of some deed done by their father or ancestor. No VCs are sent to the Front with the rations, and no one can inherit one. It marks a single deed of amazing bravery done by that one person, and marks him out for life.
In the 140 years of its existence, less than 1400 VCs have been awarded.
By their very nature, many VCs have to be awarded posthumously. Michael was one of the fortunate few to survive in battle, and lived a long and happy life afterwards.
He was the first man in the Irish Guards to be awarded the VC. and this happened in the Front in France in 1915.
He was born in Inchigeelagh Parish in 1888 and belonged to the O'Leary Riabhach family. His father was Daniel O'Leary from Cooleen townland, and his mother was Margaret Lucey.
After leaving Kilbarry National School, young Michael joined the Royal Navy in 1904 and served as a Stoker. He was invalided out due to rheumatism. Later in 1909 he served in the Irish Guards until 1913. He then emigrated to Canada and tried his luck with the North West Mounted Police until the War started in 1914 when he was recalled to the colours as a reservist, and was sent to the Front with the First Battalion Irish Guards with the rank of Lance-Corporal.
He won his VC at Cuinchy on February 1st. 1915 and was promoted to Sergeant on the field. After a period acting as an aid to recruitment in Britain, he applied for a commission, and was transferred to the Connaught Rangers as a first Lieutenant. He served in Salonika where he was mentioned in despatches, was awarded the Russian Cross of St.George in 1915, and left the Army at the end of the War as a Captain. He married Greta Hegarty of Ballyvourney in 1919, and they brought up a family of six sons and a daughter. He spent several years in Canada after the War, then returned with his family to England. He rejoined the Army at the start of World War 2 which he finished as a Major. He died in1961 and is buried in St.Mary's Cemetery, Mill Hill, London. His VC was presented to the Irish Guards Regiment by his sons, and is kept in their Regimental Archives.
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History of the E. Company Inchigeela from 1917 to the end of the Civil War.
(Our thanks to Mary Lynch (nee O'Connell) for poviding us with the following article)
This Company (Coy.) was formed in the early part of 1917. Prior to this a very strong branch of Sinn Fein was working in Inchigeela. From this branch sprang the Volunteers. Our first bit of excitement was when the Sinn Fein flag was flown from the western chimney of the Lake Hotel.
The Local R.I.C. took this very bad. The flag was flying for most of a week as the R.I.C. were afraid to climb that height. Matt Kelleher who feared no height was the man who climbed the ladders to this chimney top. His helpers were Jerh Riordan (Yank) whose laugh often made this flag ripple, Jack Manning and Danno Reilly.
The Company Officer in Command (Coy. O.C.) was Denis Quinlan whose age at this time was around 20 years, was a College educated man, stood six foot one and was a fearless leader. Under his command the Company expanded rapidly and carried out their first activities. These activities consisted of often drilling, collecting arms and opposing conscription. The Company had several trial mobilisations. At this time the Coy was attached to the 7th. Batt. Macroom. The Batt. Commandant was Dan Corkery Macroom. President De Valera reviewed troops of the 7th. Batt in Macroom in the fall of 1917, in which all the men of E Coy. took part.
Pikes from spring steel were now made in Jack Mannings forge and men of this Coy. spent many a night sledging them out, and 'we forged some steel for Ireland' said Paud O'Donohue. Home made bombs were made from tin boxes, cement and scrap iron. When filled with Dynamite these were very effective. The Coy. O.C. - D. Quinlan and a section of men took part in a daring raid on Shorten House in the Coppeen area. A Grand Hammeless shot gun, a 3.8 revolver, ammunition for both, a large amount of powder and some dynamite was secured.
A few nights later in May 1918 this Coy. made an unsuccessful raid on Norrishe's House near Coppeen. This man refused to open the door and hand over the shot gun. The Coy. O.C. watched him load and cock his gun through the key hole. It was now a case of who would shoot first. The Coy. O.C. had a consultation with his men and they decided that this shot gun was not worth a life. The men who took part in the above were D. Quinlan, T. O'Connell, D.J. Leary, Jack Kelleher, Jack Manning, Jim O'Connell, Jerh Twohig and M. O'Sullivan. On that night the O.C. did not return to Inchigeela. He stayed with some friends near Teralton and the following day went to attend a 7th Batt. meeting in Macroom. He was carrying his revolver and on his way home that evening he was accidentally shot. This caused a severe shock to his Company and more especially to the men who did duty with him on the previous night. Even at this early date this daring man had already made plans in his own Coy. for the capturing of the Local R.I.C. Barracks
The 7th Batt. gave him a glorious Military Funeral from Macroom to Newestown Cemetery.
A week later Jerh Twohig was elected Coy. O. C. A vigorous Boycott was now carried out against the R.I.C. and after the Mouth of the Glen Ambush, Martial Law was proclaimed in this and other Coy. areas. British Military occupied the Glebe House Inchigeela. Their estimated strength was about 80 strong. This house was one time owned by the late Protestant Minister and stood alone in open grounds and therefore was a very safe outpost for the enemy. The enemy was very active in the district now. The following houses were searched for men and arms - Jerh Twohig, T O'Connell, M. Vaughan, D.T. O'Leary, Will Murphy, and M. O'Sullivan. Those men were on the run but nothing was found.
The Glebe House outpost were daily sending out patrols, sometimes towards Macroom, at other times to Ballingeary. Four men of this Coy. planned to attack the two men of the Rear Guard of this patrol. On this evening the two Rear Guardsmen were close up to the main body and for that day our plans fell through. At this time a civilian who was on friendly terms with the military made a deal to buy two Rifles. These Rifles were to be delivered to him after dark at the Weir Cross. Four men were told off to watch the enemy movements and if everything went right to secure the Rifles. The next thing that happened was the patrol came on and lay in ambush. Our men got wise to the move and were able to slip quietly away.
To the delight of the E Coy. The British Troops evacuated the Glebe House at the end of 1918 and the Coy. Area was again in charge of the R.I.C. who were now finding it difficult to maintain law and order. Owing to a temporary break down in health Jerh Twohig, the Coy. O.C. was forced to resign. He went to a Cork hospital and later went to work in the City where again he became an active Volunteer and had a distinguished Record through the Tan and Civil wars.
In the early months of 1920 R.I.C. Barracks attacks were the order of the day. The 8th Batt. now planned an attack on the Inchigeela Barracks which took place on January 3rd. 1920. This attack was to start at 8.30pm. All men were to be in their positions by that time. A week before 6 men of this Coy. were told off to watch the movements of the R.I.C. and close up scouting of the building had to be carried out.
The plan was like this:
The Batt. Commandant P. O'Sullivan was in charge of this attack. A number of picked men from Coolea, Ballyvourney, and Kilnamartyra Companys were met at the Weir Cross by guides from this Coy. They crossed the Weir and moved westwards by the River Lee. A section of these men took up positions behind the fence which was 20 yards in front of the Barrack, while 4 men were to take up positions at the gate and 2 men were to throw petrol on the door by throwing a lighting cloth, and set it on fire. When the door burned down the 4 men at the gate were to rush through and enter the building while the section behind the fence covered them with rapid fire. Another section, some of them Ballingeary men, who had taken up positions at the back or west of the Building were to do likewise. Another section of men took up positions in the village, and a strong barricade was erected and guarded at the Weir Cross.
As the 4 men were silently moving from the South towards the gate where an R.I.C. man was now standing peeping over the pillar. It was 10 minutes before the opening time set for the attack, but the R.I.C. man and the I.R.A. opened fire simultaneously and the fight was on. The R.I.C. man escaping into the Barrack, the windows which were steel shuttered were now ringing with rifle and shot gun fire. While the R.I.C. flung hand grenades in all directions, and fired their pistols in the air in an effort to attract reinforcements, the I.R.A. now cut off all communications from Inchigeela. One R.I.C. who was in a local Pub and who tried to reach the Barracks during the attack was fired on and badly wounded. The hand grenades prevented the I.R.A. setting fire to the door. Their ammunitions were running low. The attack which had now lasted almost 3 hours was called off at 11.00pm. The I.R.A. suffering no casualty.
At this time R.I.C. were also in occupation of Ballingeary Barracks and a section of the Coy. erected and guarded a barricade two miles west of Inchigeela near to O'Connells Cottage. The M.O. Dr. Good who was visiting a patient was held up at this Road Block when returning home to Raleigh. He was taken into the cottage where old Mrs. Connell made him at home with a good hot cup of tea. He enquired "What the Devil is all this about" and was told by his guard from the cottage door "You may be wanted before the night is over". About 3.00am. he was left pass through in his old Model T. Ford. A few days later the Cork Examiner published a long story of the Doctor's ordeal.
Another funny incident took place while this attack was on. An old man by the name of Jim Brien, who was on the spree, came singing into the firing line, in front of the Barrack and after each volley used to shout "Fire again". There was a short cease-fire by both sides and Jim returned again to the pub. The following men took part in the above attack: Con Cronin, T. O'Connell, D. T. O'Leary, Denis S. Murphy, Jim Connell, Jack Kelleher, Syl J. B. Cotter, Mick Vaughan and M. O'Sullivan. While 12 more of the Coy were scouting.
The Inchigeela R.I.C. were now reinforced by 7 more men and a wireless receiver and transmitter was installed. Both gables of the building were doubly loop-holed and barbed wire entanglement erected. After the above attack the R.I.C. made several raids on I.R.A. men's houses and the following men were constantly on the run: Con Cronin, T. O'Connell, D.T. O'Leary and M. O'Sullivan. The R.I.C. were now compelled to stay within Barracks from dusk until dawn.
The next attack on Inchigeela Barracks was planned for March 8th. 1920. This was planned by the Officers of the first Cork Brigade who brought with them a large trough packed with explosives. This was to be placed against one of the gables, and it was electrically detonated, owing to barbed wire and tin cans. They were unable to reach the gable. Had this plan succeeded 6 or 8 picked men from the Battalion were to rush trough the breach using revolvers and hand grenades. The usual precautions of blocking and guarding the roads were taken. A large number of men from the 8th Battalion mobilised at Cooleen, 3 miles north-west of Inchigeela. Here they were met by men from the E. Coy. and led into their positions, where they waited for hours on snow covered ground. The greatest credit is due to those men who had to travel 10 - 12 miles back to their Coy. areas, and shoulder this heavy trough back to Kilnamartyra.
More to follow later on the Emergency, 50s and 60s, joining the EEC and lots more...
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